There are seven pillars of Gothic mould,
In Chillon's dungeons deep and old,
There are seven columns, massy and grey,
Dim with a dull imprison'd ray,
A sunbeam which hath lost its way ...
With all my love for poetry, Byron isn’t in my top ten list…However, I made an effort to read one of his famous poem “The Prisoner Of Chillon” before going to Switzerland. And the reason being – I knew that there is one place near Geneva, that I would love to visit very much. The place is – The Castle of Chillon and it is only about an hour from Geneva by train. I love to visit places of inspiration of famous people to grasp that special thing what makes them so talented...In England one of my most favourite cities is Shakespearian Stratford-Upon-Avon. It is not as much of memorabilia that attracts me there, but more of the certain aura in the air, when you can see like a poet, feel like a poet, breath like a poet.
Anyway, back to Switzerland, while doing my “homework” before a trip, I came across this castle. They say it is the most visited landmark on the Lac Leman. How can I miss it?! The Castle itself has been built in 9-11th century. It has strategic location on a rocky island practically in a lake somewhere in the middle of an old road to Italy. Eventually it was rebuild and extended by the counts of Savoy, who made it into a classical Medieval Castle, where your imagination can play with noble knights and fine ladies on a period-drama set. Later in 16th century it was used as a state prison and found its fame due to Bolivard – a Swiss monk, patriot and historian who fought against the Count of Savoy for independence of Geneva. Bonivard was captured and chained to a pillar in the Chillon’s dungeon for 4 years.
It was a sudden turn of fate that Lord Byron happened to pass by this place in 1800-something and the stormy weather made him stay by the Castle for few days. I’d say he’s been rather naughty when etched his name on the one of the pillars in dungeon. (someone else do this kind of thing and he’d get fined for damaging the property, but try to do the same when you are famous and suddenly your scribbles make a top attraction to the tourists)
Bored to death Byron also got inspired by the story of Bonivard who, btw, pacing up and down the area to which his chain restricted him left an imprint on the stone floors…So Byron wrote a poem and made the place famous. Naturally, since I was so close, I simply had to see it. And I must say: it was all worth it!
The castle itself is in immaculate condition. So refined that I doubt there is anything left that is genuine from the past centuries…Well, of course there must be, I’m just trying to describe that feeling of perfect medieval castle, more a set of movie then a history landmark. Anyway, personally I do not care much if it was totally rebuild in 20 centuries or not, as long as it looks like the real, it is real enough to me. You can reach the castle by tourist bus (which we, of course, turned our noses at). Or you can get there from under the lake with the aqualung.
(kidding, of course, but when we arrived to the Castle in the morning, we met two divers walking out of the lake…was kind of funny and set imagination run wild with the scenarios in James Bond style. We ourselves opted for a train. It took about an hour from Geneva – a journey through the scenic landscape of vineyards at the steeps of the hills from one side of a railtrack and mystical dark green waters of the Lac leman. The castle itself resembles a chocolate cover design: blue lake, blue mountains on the other side, white clouds hooked on the tops and a perfect silhouette of chalet which from the side of the road looks like a fortress and from the side of the lake – like a residence of prince.
As I said, the castle was in perfect condition. Around 25-30 halls and rooms, including little private chapel with the 16th century paintings, Grand Hall and Hall of Justice with their enormously huge fireplaces, duke’s chambers with the secret passage, which we couldn’t figure out the purpose was to be able to call for the servants or to let in the lovers…
As it is situated on an island, it is naturally surrounded by waters. On the “lake” side of the castle little balconies and big windows offer spectacular views of the lake and mountains on the horizon. Actually, equally impressive views could be enjoyed from the little windows of the basement with the dungeon where imprisoned Bonivard spent his 4 years in “a cell with a view” so to speak. And, of course, there is always a tower, as there is one in every respectable castle.
We’ve spend half-day in Chillon, took our time to explore all its nooks and passages. Watched the organised tourist crowd racing through in a hurry to get back to their buses (once again felt happy for us for voting out pre-packed excursion option). The weather was nice and the lake looked so peaceful, and we were tempted to take a boat for our half-way back, having dinner on board while cruising the lake to the wonderful city of Lausanne.
More of Switzerland to come...
In Chillon's dungeons deep and old,
There are seven columns, massy and grey,
Dim with a dull imprison'd ray,
A sunbeam which hath lost its way ...
With all my love for poetry, Byron isn’t in my top ten list…However, I made an effort to read one of his famous poem “The Prisoner Of Chillon” before going to Switzerland. And the reason being – I knew that there is one place near Geneva, that I would love to visit very much. The place is – The Castle of Chillon and it is only about an hour from Geneva by train. I love to visit places of inspiration of famous people to grasp that special thing what makes them so talented...In England one of my most favourite cities is Shakespearian Stratford-Upon-Avon. It is not as much of memorabilia that attracts me there, but more of the certain aura in the air, when you can see like a poet, feel like a poet, breath like a poet.
Anyway, back to Switzerland, while doing my “homework” before a trip, I came across this castle. They say it is the most visited landmark on the Lac Leman. How can I miss it?! The Castle itself has been built in 9-11th century. It has strategic location on a rocky island practically in a lake somewhere in the middle of an old road to Italy. Eventually it was rebuild and extended by the counts of Savoy, who made it into a classical Medieval Castle, where your imagination can play with noble knights and fine ladies on a period-drama set. Later in 16th century it was used as a state prison and found its fame due to Bolivard – a Swiss monk, patriot and historian who fought against the Count of Savoy for independence of Geneva. Bonivard was captured and chained to a pillar in the Chillon’s dungeon for 4 years.
It was a sudden turn of fate that Lord Byron happened to pass by this place in 1800-something and the stormy weather made him stay by the Castle for few days. I’d say he’s been rather naughty when etched his name on the one of the pillars in dungeon. (someone else do this kind of thing and he’d get fined for damaging the property, but try to do the same when you are famous and suddenly your scribbles make a top attraction to the tourists)
Bored to death Byron also got inspired by the story of Bonivard who, btw, pacing up and down the area to which his chain restricted him left an imprint on the stone floors…So Byron wrote a poem and made the place famous. Naturally, since I was so close, I simply had to see it. And I must say: it was all worth it!
The castle itself is in immaculate condition. So refined that I doubt there is anything left that is genuine from the past centuries…Well, of course there must be, I’m just trying to describe that feeling of perfect medieval castle, more a set of movie then a history landmark. Anyway, personally I do not care much if it was totally rebuild in 20 centuries or not, as long as it looks like the real, it is real enough to me. You can reach the castle by tourist bus (which we, of course, turned our noses at). Or you can get there from under the lake with the aqualung.
(kidding, of course, but when we arrived to the Castle in the morning, we met two divers walking out of the lake…was kind of funny and set imagination run wild with the scenarios in James Bond style. We ourselves opted for a train. It took about an hour from Geneva – a journey through the scenic landscape of vineyards at the steeps of the hills from one side of a railtrack and mystical dark green waters of the Lac leman. The castle itself resembles a chocolate cover design: blue lake, blue mountains on the other side, white clouds hooked on the tops and a perfect silhouette of chalet which from the side of the road looks like a fortress and from the side of the lake – like a residence of prince.
As I said, the castle was in perfect condition. Around 25-30 halls and rooms, including little private chapel with the 16th century paintings, Grand Hall and Hall of Justice with their enormously huge fireplaces, duke’s chambers with the secret passage, which we couldn’t figure out the purpose was to be able to call for the servants or to let in the lovers…
As it is situated on an island, it is naturally surrounded by waters. On the “lake” side of the castle little balconies and big windows offer spectacular views of the lake and mountains on the horizon. Actually, equally impressive views could be enjoyed from the little windows of the basement with the dungeon where imprisoned Bonivard spent his 4 years in “a cell with a view” so to speak. And, of course, there is always a tower, as there is one in every respectable castle.
We’ve spend half-day in Chillon, took our time to explore all its nooks and passages. Watched the organised tourist crowd racing through in a hurry to get back to their buses (once again felt happy for us for voting out pre-packed excursion option). The weather was nice and the lake looked so peaceful, and we were tempted to take a boat for our half-way back, having dinner on board while cruising the lake to the wonderful city of Lausanne.
More of Switzerland to come...